Manolin

Walking past the twinkling lights and outdoor patio, we opened the broad doors into the dining room of Manolin. With soft bright lights and mellow music, the ambiance of Wallingford’s new establishment was both warm and inviting.

Owners Rachel Johnson and Joe Sundberg opened the eatery last month on Stone Way using their joined experience from working at Whale Wins and Walrus and the Carpenter.

Manolin was named after a character from Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea to coincide with the seafood-centric menu and blue restaurant interior.

While the bartender was shaking craft cocktails, we munched on crispy plantain chips seasoned with salt and pepper.

The rotating menu offered a selection of raw items including a rockfish ceviche over sliced avocado. Cubes of mild sweet potato were surprising and offset the acidity of the lime.

The winter slaw with herbs and spicy almonds was beautifully done, offering a light and refreshing approach to a vegetable course.

Most impressive were the different sauces on several dishes including coconut cream floating atop the scallop ceviche and black garlic sauce beneath grilled Alaskan octopus. Each added a subtle, yet notable flavor to the protein.

Halfway through the meal, our curiosity got the best of us and we ordered the grilled beef with potatoes and radishes. Cooked over Manolin’s signature open flame, it came out in a shallow pool of colatura, an Italian fish sauce. Beside it was a smear of pork lardo—luscious, and perfect for dipping.

The Fernet panna cotta with bitter cocoa powder was a smooth finish to the delicate meal.

Manolin is both familiar and special, showcasing bright flavors and local fare. Visit Johnson and Sundberg for dinner Tuesday-Saturday.