Atoma is one of our neighborhood’s newest restaurants, opening just over a month ago in the space formerly occupied by Tilth at 1411 N 45th St. Headed by former Canlis executive sous chef Johnny Courtney, it is sure to get Seattle foodies talking.
My wife and I arrived at 5:30 on a Tuesday, half an hour after opening, having reserved our spot about a month previously. Only a few tables were occupied at that point, but the place filled up quickly. Although I think one party was seated in spite of not having a reservation, I highly recommend having one – which will be secured by a $50 deposit to discourage no-shows.
Atoma is the kind of restaurant that offers up numerous, pleasant dining surprises.
For example, I didn’t think I’d ever order something called “radish cakes” let alone recommend them, but our server was giving them two thumbs up, so we had a couple. Although our server could describe it better, you’re stuck with me. The radish was thinly sliced – not nearly as bitter as other radishes I have known (maybe it was cooked?) – and layered over bread slices as dark as rye but which crunched like a cracker. Raw geoduck was in there somewhere along with a white sauce. Delicious!
Other small things we had … Crumpets. Looking for all the world like two, unsliced English muffins, but with a totally different taste. Tuna crudo (called kanpachi on the menu). It packed a smokier taste than tuna crudo I’ve had elsewhere, and was served on sunchoke chips rather than crostini. A kale salad was tossed with a buttermilk dressing and something like ground up cheese twists. But it worked!
For main dishes, we had black cod, which I always love. But I need to talk about the lions mane schnitzel. Yes, lions mane is a large and dangerous jellyfish; that’s not what we were eating. Lions mane is also a fungus. If you’ve enjoyed schnitzel made of veal or pork, I would simply say: don’t be afraid of the fungus. Fried like a schnitzel should be, and covered with shaved celery root and other fine stuff, it will be very good to you. It was good to me.
For dessert, we couldn’t decide between the baked alaska (made with carrot cake and parsnip, yes parsnip, ice cream) or the bavaroises with sorbet and grapes. So we got both.
Atoma is a fitting replacement for the venerable Tilth not just in terms of the fine cuisine, but also in terms of the price point. Our dinner for two came to $300 which included a bottle of wine (Matthiasson cabernet, $100).
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Yes. I often pass by this restaurant on my way to pick up my weekly groceries at the Wallingford Food Bank.
Sounds delicious! Agree about the great price point.
Jack and @Serendipitous are you @&$@! nuts!!?? Dinner for two for $300 is great!?? Must be nice to be a tech bro or otherwise, but I live here, have since 2014, raising a family here, but could NEVER afford a dinner for two for $300!!!!!???? WTF?
Guess it must be super nice to be in your shoes…………..
Jack, are you @&$?! Nuts?
@serendipitous, your comment, read twice, is precious.
A dinner for two for $300 is great replacement “price point!?”
Most people in our country get by on $300 per week for an entire food budget, for a family. My Midwest relatives are always appalled when they visit us by the prices that we pay for everything from gas, to food, to electricity, to water, services, etc. etc. etc..
You just might want to check your privilege here. I’m not crying “woe is me” but I just think that assuming a dinner out for two for that ridiculous amount is “great” is way off base.
By “fitting replacement,” I meant that the cost is similar. Tilth wasn’t cheap; Atoma isn’t cheap.