Back in the early seventies, my dad came back from a business trip to Japan hooked on sushi, which was rather unheard of in our Oklahoma town, population 25,000. If I remember correctly, there weren’t any Japanese restaurants in the state (maybe Benihana in Oklahoma City?). About ten years passed before our family moved to Houston, and later, to New Jersey. We all learned how to use chopsticks, and got comfortable eating and ordering raw fish. After I went off to school in NYC, a visit from “Mr Bob” was always the perfect excuse to find a sushi restaurant and invite my roommates out for a special meal. This evolved over the years. As “empty-nesters,” my parents ate at their local sushi restaurant so frequently the owners came to know them. This family proclivity has been passed on; I have grown to love it too. My dad passed away before I could take him out in Wallingford. Nevertheless, my quest for the perfect spot in my new ‘hood inspired me to write a food review about the sushi places we tried. My criteria were good quality, fresh food, friendly service and comfortable seating. I was hoping to not break the bank.
Several excellent options are nearby. Even before I moved to Wallingford last year, one of the area’s options, Kisaku, merited a visit. We were celebrating a birthday, and so my UW junior researched and made the reservation. Located in Tangletown (2101 N 55th St), the restaurant features a large sushi bar, staffed with several chefs. They offer two omakase options (Moriawase at $65 and a market sampler for $35) as well as traditional sushi and seasonal specials.. They are open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations are a good idea, and especially for weekends when they are often fully booked. An event space is available for special occasions.
I’ve been there two more times since moving here in 2022; once for another celebration, and a third time on a Sunday night. Kisaku meets most of my criteria, but I wanted to try all of the neighborhood options, as a more budget-friendly place would lend to more frequent visits.
On that note, a recent Monday night Yelp search took us to Musashi’s (1400 N 45th St.), which is part of a small chain. From what I gathered, this is a neighborhood stalwart, especially catering to the younger crowd. We were welcomed and seated quickly, with our table facing a wall decorated with neighborhood events posters. The server brought us a pitcher of tea (green tea and roasted barley blend). We were instructed to place our order (tekka maki rolls, several pieces of nigiri, and miso soup) at the counter. Overall, the food was a little disappointing. The tiny sushi rolls came out so quickly that I had to assume it was pre-made. The soup had no tofu, only broth and bits of seaweed. When one part of the order was incorrect, the server offered only for us to order more, not correct it. And my favorite sushi, unagi (eel), had an “off” taste. The manager came to check on us, and offered to replace it, so we had albacore nigiri instead, which we enjoyed. The Yelp reviews on Musashi reinforced our experience: it changed ownership and went downhill in the last few years. If budget is your main concern, this is a fine choice. But, you might consider grabbing some pre-made sushi at QFC, which is made fresh every day.
Now for the happy ending: we were looking for a place to go out with another couple, and we decided to try Kozue, located at 1608 N 45th St. The friendly servers welcomed us, and encouraged us to order our drinks and appetizers in time for their happy hour (nightly from 5-7). Inside, it felt comfortable and unstuffy. For those who prefer dining outdoors, they offer a covered patio. A sushi chef was working busily at a small sushi bar. Although our group included one vegetarian, we had no trouble finding plenty of options from a large menu which included cooked dishes, such as vegetable tempura, teriyaki and bibimbap. They are open Tuesday-Saturday 5-830 pm and on Saturday for lunch 12-230 pm. For diners under 12, their kid’s menu is popular (and less than $10). Since that night, I’ve been back to Kozue on a recent Friday night. They had a short wait, but were able to accomodate us quickly. I don’t think it will be our last visit. For me, it’s a sweet in-between, just what I was looking for and ticks all the boxes. Next, I plan to take the younger generation there, and see if they agree. My treat now.
Discover more from Wallyhood
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
Thank you for your review and your story about your father. I too have moved to Wallingford last year and love trying new places to eat with my daughter who has lived locally since 2001 when she came here to go to graduate school and loves sushi. We have eaten at Kozue, and I agree with your take on it. I have not been to Kisaku yet and I will have to ask my daughter if she has since it sounds like a great place to try.
If willing to travel out of Wallingford, and forego economy, for a special occasion, Kappo Tamura is recommendable, in Eastlake. Might like to take a place at the counter.
The widely beloved unagi is unfortunately not considered to be a sustainable option, by seafoodwatch et al. If you really like fish, saba mackerel might be worth a try. It has a rich flavor that doesn't need the teriyaki sauce or whatever they broil the unagi with, but it's for fish lovers only. I don't think it's exactly raw, rather sort of pickled or cured more or less that way.